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by Markus Del Monego "It was a real surprise - this wine which was purple in colour with tinges of violet. The nose was still a little closed. It slowly began to open out and developed aromas reminiscent of fresh blackcurrants and fully ripe blackberries. At the same time there were spicy notes of vanilla and smokiness which were surprisingly intense. On the palate the wine was most pleasing with its fine tannins and full body although the flavour was still a little reticent. This was clearly a wine from the Haut Médoc! But from which Château? It had to be something new that a wine retailer friend of mine had given me to taste." It turned out to be a 1997 Château Bernadotte. The very thought of this tasting experience simply would not leave me. A superb, elegant wine from such a supposedly "difficult year" - if only all difficult years produced wines like this! What was the secret? I went to Bordeaux with some friends of mine to taste the new 2001 vintage. Our visit started with Château Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande where May Eliane de Lencquesaing and Gildas d'Ollone were waiting for us with a tasting of the Pichon and the Bernadotte 2001. This vintage was quite impressive and was most different to what I had read prior to the tasting. Then we went to Château Bernadotte. This château became our home during our stay. Upon arrival we were welcomed with the 1998. This was a wine with an outstandingly deep colour, a very deep red, almost black in colour, and which still showed the violet tinges of youth. The bouquet was intense and complex. The fruity aromas were very much in the foreground, smelling of ripe plums, blackcurrants, black cherries and a touch of violet and liquorice. The flavours carried through onto the palate, which was marked by elegant, ripe tannins. The wine made a velvety, concentrated impression and had a long, lingering finish. The next morning the few rays of sunshine that made their way through the closed blinds bathed the room in an almost unreal light. Why yes, that's right - the secret was still waiting for us. A trip through the winery would bring the secret to light. 30 hectares of vineyards awaited us, planted in classic Bordeaux fashion with Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc and a little Petit Verdot. This was surely part of the secret. Or was it more to do with the soil, the loamy soil with its thick layer of gravel on top? Even the cellar could help us in our search - would it be the 3 week fermentation in stainless steel tanks or the maturation in one third new barriques, one third first use and one third second use, a period of maturation which can extend up to 18 months, depending on the vintage. It quickly became clear that it was a combination of factors. Not only the soil, the climate, the vines or the vinification were responsible. There is another element ever present and important : Man. The quality of the wine is in no small measure attributable to his decisions and, especially to his love of the wine. And that was what the tasting at the end of our tour showed us without any doubt at all. |
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The 1999 was superb. The quality of the vintage with its perfect, healthy grapes certainly was plain to see. And while almost all varieties are blended together in the 1998 vintage wine, with the 1999 only Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot are used. The 1999 was a deep ruby red with tinges of purple. The ripeness of the fruit was evident on the bouquet. Aromas of black fruits like blackcurrants, blackberries and elderberries were enhanced by fine yet gentle spicy notes and perfectly integrated oak, characterised by the delicate hints of smoke. This was a wine with length, elegance and finesse, its abundance of fruit being particularly noteworthy. The 2000 vintage showed a more obvious Cabernet Sauvignon character and was definitely the best wine of the Château so far. Powerful and intense, even in the deep purple colour, aromas of raspberries, mulberries and blackcurrants dominated the bouquet. Enhanced by elegant notes of cocoa and coffee as well as gentle spices, the picture was one of a complex and inviting wine. On the palate the flavours continued and the finish was incredibly long. The tannins were pleasingly ripe, powerful and elegant. This was a wonderful experience. The 2001 managed to give a very good impression, even after the 2000. This was an elegantly structured wine with superb concentration and length. The oaky notes from the barriques were still rather obvious in this purple-coloured wine, although this is very normal with cask samples. The components of fruit and fine tobacco spices were already showing behind the scenes to assure the wine of a long future. The tannins on the palate could only help this. The secret? - it was clearly Man. You could see man's understanding of this estate increase with each vintage, as the quality also improved - an almost unhampered road to the top. The tasting was a pleasurable trip back in time as well as a promising look to the future. |
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