 |
|||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
|
|||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
|
|||||||||||||
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
|||||||||
 |
 |
 |
 |
||||||||||
 |
|||||||||||||
 |
||||||
|
At lunch time on April 26th 2002 the outlook is grey and dreary… and yet as soon as we enter that classic and awe-inspiring temple of French gastronomy, Taillevent, we are immediately imbued with a feeling of beauty, well being and good living. In the little upstairs salon, the journalists are arriving in clusters, France, England, Sweden, Austria, Italy, Japan and the United States are all well represented. A glass of Bernadotte 99 greets them. Their appreciation of this Haut Medoc Cru Bourgeois is enthusiastic : full, round, ripe fruit and soft wood… This latest off-spring of Pichon appears to please ! The grand dining-room with its XVIIIth century paneling is sumptuously dressed for the occasion. |
|||||
The table sparkles, the army of glasses are all lined up: they await 8 outstanding wines. The objective is to link the wines two by two according to a chosen theme: the "classics", the "warm wines", the "challengers" and the "seducers"… And the whole art is to select the appropriate dish for each of these "pairs". The impeccable and stylish Maîtres d'hôtel serve the first glasses and bring in the starter :"Ravioli of mushrooms and truffles" and Pichon Lalande 86 and 96, the classic wines. This dish is also one of Mr. Vrinat's great classics. It is quite superb, the sauce is fluffy; the truffles and the mushrooms of the ravioli are flavourful, we are in the undergrowth, the sky is blue … The wines go perfectly with the dish. The 86, powerful and fine represents a balance between structure and velvety smoothness. The main course follows: Roast spring lamb with peppers of Espelette" go with the wines described as "warm", the 82 and 89. How could we not serve Pauillac with the lamb? The match is obvious…What we receive in our glass is incredibly mellow and soft.The idea of peppers can be frightening, in fact we find the peppers extremely mild and aromatic. It gives an idea of sun. And the wines? What can we say about the huge 82? A chronicler-poet described it as: "terrifyingly complex, the "mouth" absolutely stunning, a silence of angels descends, the pleasure rises to finish in an apotheosis… The 89 likewise is very structured and concentrated with ripe fruit and complex aromas. Wines in fact marked by beautiful summers, which fill the mouth with sun. The verdict is unanimous: a great gastronomic moment and in particular the two mouthfuls of lamb's kidney with the 82… The cheese? It had to be researched as, contrary to what one is led to believe, it is very difficult to match wine and cheese… Often the cheese is much too strong, like camembert, it needs a hefty wine to dominate the cheese otherwise one should look to a white wine. During the preparation for a meal I had the occasion to taste a brie with a walnut stuffing. The idea was excellent but, like camembert, brie can be a little strong. On the cheese tray I notice a "Pierre Robert", a cheese which also comes from Brie, very creamy and mild. Why not stuff it with nuts? This is done for the great day. The result proves to be ideal as the mildness of the cheese is enlivened by the walnuts. The 87 and 97, "the challengers" are served. The 87, the overlooked vintage of the decade, reveals today all its freshness and complexity. It is a very subtle vintage with notes of black currant and elegant wood.The 97 is marked by an attractive attack in the mouth, its suppleness and feminine charm go well with the creaminess of the cheese. A very honorable 97, worthy of the "challenge" which just goes to prove that certain 97s are marvellous to drink. The dessert ? This often gives rise to controversy, and such was the case. Sugar, fruit and cold desserts are always difficult for red wines. For my part, I am very partial to chocolate with wine… This was by no means the view of all our guests! The "chocolate fudge" was hardly sweetened, even a little bitter, served with a thyme flavoured ice-cream. There was a silence and then an uproar of disapproval: "This dessert kills the wines". The verdict fell as swiftly as a sword. The seductive 85, full of charm with its ripe, woody nose, and aromas of jam and leather cannot dominate the chocolate. The 95 holds up a little better against this dessert as the notes of roasted coffee, chocolate and liquorice stand up well. The ripeness of the cabernet sauvignon and merlot produce very soft tannins and a charm that is deep and devastating. The discussion about desserts becomes animated. Chocolate is definitely a "No". One guest even concludes: "next time the meal must be meat only". Georges Lepré closes the discussion delightfully by entoning an air from Verdi's "Il Travatore". The whole of Taillevent holds its breath. Then, as the first notes burst out, the intimidating silence is broken, the temple trembles for a minute, the height of happiness has been reached. |
||||||
 |
||||||
