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Serena Sutcliffe
tastes seventy years of pichon

16th April 1999

1996 : Imposing, very classic Cabernet Sauvignon nose. Cedary. Very cassis when you swirl it in the glass. Gradually becomes blackberry. Great richness and fat on the palate. Has all the components to make a bottle for
30-40 years to come but, as always with Pichon, you can broach it at any age because the structure is matched by
richness.

 
1995 : The extra year in bottle (after the 1996) gives the extraordinary Pichon scent, cinnamon and cedar, with violets always lurking in the background. Great finesse of
texture, more “feminine” than the 1996, lovely violets and cedarwood, with meatiness on the finish. Supreme class.

1994 : Surprisingly opulent, plummy and plump nose. A touch of vanillin and even tarry “torrefaction”. Marked acidity to match the soft fruit. Excellent attack and pure Médoc definition. Has not been to charm school but has great flavour. Would be excellent with strong, even gamey food.

1991 : The real bouquet of a grand vin. Deep, aromatically intense (the mark of those few excellent 1991s, all on the best terroirs) - like spiced hot chocolate ! Blackcurrant comes through. Almost smoky. Wonderful fruit in the middle. Damsons and a touch of prunes. The finish is not mega-long, so it is perfect drinking now and for the next 10 years. A remarkable achievement. Aftertaste of roast lamb and redcurrant jelly. Try the wine against the real thing !

1990 : Pichon violets on the nose, plus redcurrants and roses. Silky and seductive. So smooth it slips down. Not a big Pichon (no press wine was added), but a filigree Pichon of enormous charm and allure. Melts in the mouth. A Pichon for the summer. But, “attention” the finish has a touch of firmness and definition that could indicate future strength. Great terroir has a habit of doing this.

1989 : Rich, immensely complex,fascinating bouquet.Headyfruit. Enormouslyvibrant. Plums, cloves and a touch of coffee. Great red fruit andredmeattaste. Sumptuous, lovely thick, luscious texture. Figs at the finish. This wine has become a beautiful adult. A personal favourite.

1988 : Utterly vivacious, youthful, fresh Médoc “grand vin” nose. Something to teach over !
The fresh nature of the fruit on the palate is what drinking Claret is all about. Juicy and more-ish. A very classic Pauillac, not exotic, just pure. Utterly gulpable now, but the harmony of the wine ensures long life. Sweet at the end.

1986 : Dense, thick colour. Noble, majestic, even monumental nose of black fruit with a touch of tar. Deep, brambly taste. Blackberry Jam. The glycerol and fat is there to match the tannic structure. Acidity, fruit and tannin all there in massive doses. A wine to take you to the next half century !

1985 : Nose of a blackberry and blackcurrant compôte. Luscious, opulent, juicy fresh taste. Just so appealing and fruity. So easy of access that the tannins are hardly noticeable, but they are there in abundance. Utterly seductive, generous wine. The personification of Pichon. While the 1986 is “hors gamme”.

1964 : Rich nose. Damsons and liquorice. Roasted redcurrants taste. Very rich and aromatic. Almost creamy. Soft and sweet and now very open. Drink now and quite. Soon for optimum pleasure. A delicious wine.

1959 : Very serious nose. A real sense of a very important wine in a very important year. Definition, gravitas and concentration. Perfect, great mature Pauillac of top class. The cedarwood and cigars bouquet just grows and grows. Dried flowers. Rich, exotic taste. Meaty and plummy. Like a liqueur. So sweet at the end.

1926 : Glorious scent. Lacy and haunting. Great sweet aromatics. Soft, sweet, fragrant, classic vanilla pod old wine. Concentration and harmony. This remains a high point of the vintage.


Wines at Lunch

1982 : Comes bounding out of the glass like a King Charles spaniel ! Melts in the mouth. Superb with guinea fowl and foie gras. Magnificent richness and elegance. Very aromatic and fine. So much more “classic” now than in its youth, when it was exotic and jam-like. Pichon 1982 always gives total pleasure. I have never known it to be less than wonderfully exciting.

     
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