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We
are all agreed in recognizing the talents of our tasting friends
who come to judge our wines but in spite of their great experience
we note with some alarm that our primeur wine is being tasted earlier
and earlier.
It
is like trying to appreciate a precious stone that as not yet been
cut or set or like trying to listen to certain instruments of a
symphonic orchestra instead of listening to synphony itself in all
its instrumental symbiosis.
Is
not it a fact that the pre-eminence of a great wine lies in its
finesse, its complexity and its depth which is acquired during the
ageing process and from the way in which it is aged at the Chateau
?
Today
the trend is to give preference to a primeur wine that is attractive
straight away. As in a beauty contest, the wines are classed, they
are selected for their coating of tanins, high colour, richness,
and impressiveness and they resemble more nearly New World wines
than the great classic wines of Bordeaux whose style is a reflection
of the vintage and an expression of the terroir.
The
potential of our wines can only be appreciated when all the grape
varieties have had time to meld harmoniously together after the
assemblage. Then is it not later than March that our wines should
be judged ? Our philosophy is that the best date for tasting would
never be earlier than mid-April. The most objective would be in
November , 14 months after the harvest. Admittedly, the primeur
wines of an 89 or 90 vintage are easy to taste, but an 86, 88, 96
and 98 are more delicate to judge very young as their complexity
and their depth demands great humility. What possibilities for error
! The Pichon 75 and 88 are two flagrant examples. Hard, even austere
in the prime of their youth, these wines underwent a metamorphosis
to produce elegant and silky tannins.
In
respect of the quality and of a long historical tradition we denounce
this deviation which consists of submitting samples of our primeur
wine too soon to professionals and to the media. We are counting
on your professionalism to support our action.
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